Friday, November 13, 2009

NEW RIVAAAAAAA O NO





After much deliberation and anxiety its set were heading to the new for the weekend for a birthday slash climbing and video sesh. I am psyched there were a lot of rogue events that had to happen for this to go down and I am so glad that it is. A nice weekend with good people and lots of climbing is just what the doc ordered.

I am so psyched to get back to the New as there are a lot of new areas and problems that I would like to get done. I've been to a handful of bouldering spots on the east coast, and though I must admit spots like horse pens that you can camp next to the rocks at are nice but I think the new is one of the most varied and fun climbing spots I've ever been to. The problems are quality and vary depending on the spot you go to. Hawks nest has a plethora of blank faces polished by the dams rushing water, cottonhill is much more textured almost like a little flavor of southern sandstone. Last time we also checked out Short creek. now I know its hard for most people to imagine good bouldering in the new but these spots are rad and host world class moderates and could host world class testpieces. Short creek is a good example of this with huge blocks and crazy prows and 15-20 faces that are forever long. This has to be one of my favorite spots ever cause of its quality and locale. Last time we were at short creek we worked this awesome problem that was the full package and I hope to go back and do it as well as other area classics. 

Connelly has some problems to go back to that he had epic battles with last time. The kid never disappoints giving a hundred and ten everytime he climbs its ubsurd. He tried this lowball like a hundred times last time called the poop reprise and he just got shredded trying to do the mantle so hopefully this time he sends. I wanna get video of him doing the poop, left brest arete, the couldawoulah, as well as him reapeating minds of moria.

Im stoked I put together a more realistic ticklist than I had last time and hope I send

v9's left  -v6
leaving las fayetteville  -v6
one to one      -v5
short creek problem       -vgnar
supperflussing          -v6

Were gonna check out the meadow but this is my ticklist as of now cackawwwwww
heres some pics from our last trip




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