The new and thanksgiving

Just got back from another trip from the new and it was awesome. Climbed a lot by myself which is really enlightening. anyways went down to short creek and repeated connellys highball problem with no spotter luckily it went first try!

Then I went down the hill to my project. as the temps began to creep up I knew I would not have long to hit that sloper and stick but after only short work I sent! what an amazing problem dubbed hey czar buddy after the name of the dog following me around that day, probably 7a+ even maybe 7b so I was psyched.

Then I headed down to cotton bottom and did that stupid lowball the v9s left which goes at v6 but I'd say it's more like v5 or so but cool. fingers malone is heinous, bat cave traverse I made progress on but the top was wet so I left it alone till next time. Then I went over to sticky fingers which is a super sharp problem that climbs the tall boulder as soon as you walk down the hill. Ive done all the moves but need to clean the top to send cause its sketchy and mossy so next time Im hopin for success

Brecksville

Brecks is sick I am so psyched to have it so close. We went recently to take some hd video and show the boys the new sector with the space case slap, black and tan, and an eigth of crack. I mean this place was solid before but with all this new rock, new potential, and new problems I'd say this place is a destination at least for ohioans even though climbings not allowed in the park. 

We warmed up on the booya arete where Connelly finally sent after coming up with crazy new beta, dustin sent quickly after him. While fishing around on the booya I found holds that were way low on the problem and added a hard sit start where you have to grab a left hand crimp right had smear right hip in and dyno to a big blocky jug and grab it while all your weight swings backwards, Im glad it didn't take me that long cause that jug had a super sharp edge and skin would have flown if it took any longer. I dubbed the route the boo radley sit in honor of that poor bro in to kill a mockingbird and think it adds another grade to an already solid problem.

We checked out earthen underground but yet again it was dripping wet and muddy which sucked but I think this problem will get better as the weather improves in the spring time. We cruised on to space case slap which even though it was wet we still all killed it just cause its the craziest cool problem. Then onto Black and tan where con-man and dustin were shut down by their hangovers and the first move. I was psyched to repeat but it took nearly an hour and that last move was so so desperate definate 7a territory i believe but I degress from grading. 

After the black and tan we trotted up to an eight of crack that I recetly saw pictures of and was stoked to get on but this thing is stiff. It involves bad smears and super core tension that I just don't have but I was stoked to be able to make the first move and the last few moves so the crux will determine if I send or not someday. After that mission we were pretty tore up and decided to go check out thugged out since cub scouts which was dry and bad as hell what a day killer check the vid for some pimpin beta on the classics.

cakawwwwwwwww

brecksville short from corey perez on Vimeo.

Brecks

About to head to brecks and get some footage with the new HD badass camera cakawwww

New river mayhem

Got back from the new sunday night after a sick trip for my birthday with a crew of me con man channa and alex which was an awesome group. We decided to live it up and got a cabin for the weekend even though it was 70 most days and only about 50 at night it was still a blast and a great place to put out bag o wine.

We left late sunday after some financial issues and rolled into the gorge around 2 am after a heinous drive but there was much anticipation in the air. This was our second time to the gorge in just a few weeks and we were psyched to get back to some problems that weve been dreaming of.

Saturday we awoke to perfect temps and sunny weather and decided to head over the the dam. The river was raging from that tropical storm so we headed up the hill to a new spot for the day and found some great stuff. There isnt a huge concentration of boulders there but there is a huge concentration of problems. W warmed up on an awesome v4 called taper point and then went over to this cave that had a bunch of lines. I ended up thrashing the one that goes right up the gut like third go and was psyched because it was solid for its grade at about v5 but played to all my strong suits. Then we hit up the dirty slot another v5 with good friction a rad finish and a hard mantle if the temps were just a tiny bit lower i think we would have sent but the sloper at the top was super greasy so maybe next time.

That night was a blurr and the next day we headed to short creek. We warmed up on a really cool vertical face that had some heinous high steps and a throw to a sloper for a finish. I struggled with a tiny pebble that kept slicing my tips but con man sent like a fuckin pimp good on bro cackawwwwwww! We then went to this overhang that was sick that we both sent pretty quickly and we both agreed the grades were around v5.  After that we went to this crazy crimp problem that is probably around v9 and I only have one more move and itll be done I hope to get back to this problem real soon. We ended the day at the problem we had tried a bunch last time. I finished it rather quickly this time minus the topout cause it was rediculously dirty and the fall might render both me and connelly dude but i digress.

School is insane graduating soon and I hope I am able to graduate. Next week were heading south to hang out with my dad for thanksgiving which should be fun. Were gonna hit up the new again to get back at that hard short creek problem. Were also gonna hit up some north carolina spot and on the way back were gonna go to the red river gorge to check out the cove a  huge roof with a ton of problems, one in particular called kryptonite a v7 that clims some amazing edges and pinches so Im psyched sending temps are here. Check out this first cut of the new river footage and also were gonna have some gekocirkus team shirts soon to so get em while their hot.

Cakawwww!

New River gorge from corey perez on Vimeo.

NEW RIVAAAAAAA O NO

After much deliberation and anxiety its set were heading to the new for the weekend for a birthday slash climbing and video sesh. I am psyched there were a lot of rogue events that had to happen for this to go down and I am so glad that it is. A nice weekend with good people and lots of climbing is just what the doc ordered.

I am so psyched to get back to the New as there are a lot of new areas and problems that I would like to get done. I've been to a handful of bouldering spots on the east coast, and though I must admit spots like horse pens that you can camp next to the rocks at are nice but I think the new is one of the most varied and fun climbing spots I've ever been to. The problems are quality and vary depending on the spot you go to. Hawks nest has a plethora of blank faces polished by the dams rushing water, cottonhill is much more textured almost like a little flavor of southern sandstone. Last time we also checked out Short creek. now I know its hard for most people to imagine good bouldering in the new but these spots are rad and host world class moderates and could host world class testpieces. Short creek is a good example of this with huge blocks and crazy prows and 15-20 faces that are forever long. This has to be one of my favorite spots ever cause of its quality and locale. Last time we were at short creek we worked this awesome problem that was the full package and I hope to go back and do it as well as other area classics. 

Connelly has some problems to go back to that he had epic battles with last time. The kid never disappoints giving a hundred and ten everytime he climbs its ubsurd. He tried this lowball like a hundred times last time called the poop reprise and he just got shredded trying to do the mantle so hopefully this time he sends. I wanna get video of him doing the poop, left brest arete, the couldawoulah, as well as him reapeating minds of moria.

Im stoked I put together a more realistic ticklist than I had last time and hope I send

v9's left  -v6

leaving las fayetteville  -v6

one to one      -v5

short creek problem       -vgnar

supperflussing          -v6

Were gonna check out the meadow but this is my ticklist as of now cackawwwwww

heres some pics from our last trip

power slide and godfathers

Crap this weekend was a blurrrrrr!!!

It went too fast with so much good food, friends, climbing, and introspection. We cruised out Friday night after classes to cleveland for the environmental rally powershift, which is basically an environmental conference with a ton of speakers and good people raising money and rallying around their ideals for a greener planet which is a great cause. 

Friday night we cruised over to Alex's house to have a home-cooked meal. We arrived to a full house of aunts and friends a had a blast. She cooked us to whole chickens and all the fixens and since we had all been living on pasta we showed down. Mid way through the meal mama D whipped out the Johnny Walked and Disaronno and made us all godfathers which were off the hook. Everyone thought me and Connelly didn't like them but we liked them so much we downed them like shots and begged for more haha.

The next morning we were all a bit hazy and didnt get started until after a bang a rang breakfeast by mama D at around 1 in the afternoon (we were supposed to be up at like 9) haha o well. Since the day was wearing on I just dropped Cha and Con-man at powershift and cruised out to Elyria to battle the powerslide project, an epis roof lip traverse that climbs along the lip of the roof in about 40 moves with a retardedly hard move smack dab in the middle making it a difficult problem that also requires tension and endurance the full package!!!

I warned up on Achilles which I did the first ascent of and I also attached a pic. I know Mike has repeated it and to me it feels like 6c+ maybe even 7a. The climbing isnt all that hard but the positions as well as the beta are difficult to manage. Either way its super fun and a hidden gem fo sho CACKAWWW repeated that pretty quick and cruised up to powerslide.

I was trying my original beta over and over on the crux and it was just feeling stupid and impossible and I was super drained and the sun was starting to set and that park is the last place i would want to be alone in the dark. Then i tryed a different more obvious beta that seemed heinous before but I switched feat and it was good. I started making that move and trying the next which was a huge breakthrough, and I was beat so I was stoked!!!! I have more confidence on this project than ever and think it will go next time out there. 

Sunday was lame someone who said they were gonna cruise out to climb never did and I was still beat and it was weirdly hot and my skin was done so I just bagged out but it has nothing to do with my psych cause im amped to get back and send !!!!

Cackawwww

Next weekend will hopefully be insane cause its my birfday yeaaaaaaa sporting ticklists all over my walls cant wait to make some updates

couple cool pics one is of me playing the home made digiridoo!!!! cackawwwwww